finally arrives in a useable form!
http://www.danamics.com/danamics-lm10.aspx

I'd buy one when it's available. Apparently a power draw of one watt!

Someone else here reads Slashdot I see. I just came to post the same thing so I guess I'll just bump it instead.

i wonder what kinda of price were talkin for one of these

This is not new technology but it is the first instance I have seen available for the home PC.

I am a little skeptical of the claim for their device having the lowest thermal resistance.

While it is important for any air cooler to quickly pass heat from the hot zone to the cool zone, the thermal resistance we are most concerned with is across the CPU/HS interface.

I think this air cooler will be a good thing for silent PCs or those placed in rooms with low ambient temps. For those with the O/C, one will still need fans.

$20.00 worth of autobody wet/dry sandpaper ranging between 800 and 4000 grit and a little elbow grease to lap your copper HS and CPU IHS will effectively reduce the CPU/HS thermal resistance by increasing the area of direct contact.

I've been doing this for a few years now and no longer use thermal pastes or greases as they actually start to hinder the transfer of heat.

Below is a link to show the thermal conductivity of certain materials.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_th ... uctivities

I'm waiting for the synthetic diamond cooler

Around 6 years ago I read a post on SharkyExtreme of a guy who lapped his heatsink and CPU Die (IHS's weren't being used at the time) with that high of a grit, if not higher, and he came to the same results after much testing. I don't doubt the people who are doing it but I think I would have a hard time putting on a heatsink without thermal paste if it was in my system and I had to pay for the consequences... I'm more of a wuss now than I was back then though.

i read about the lapping. sounds good. but im too scared to do it to my q6600. how much would some1 charge me to lap my processor and air cooler when i pick up the air cooler that is.

i put on my thermaltake cpu fan last nite. and well the fan stopped working for one. i replaced tha fan. and the bloody heat pipes are all bent and kinked. rite now im at stock and my temps are mid 40s-50c.
water cooling kit getting sold today to one of the members on here. im sick of always checking my computer for leaks. i cant leave it on all nite because if the pump stops working it will fuck up a 2000$-3000$ computer lol. and its my only computer setup in my living room. and between fish sales and me buying fish. i kinda need it to be on all the time.
so back to air im going. im done bench marking for now. 17645 pts in 3dmark! im happy with that, until clarkey buys another sicker computer. my oc days are done. plus this computer at 2.4 ghz for games still rocks. i got grid on 16xmss or whatever the highest setting and everything else on max and i get 60-80 fps. oc'd i can get 70-100 no real difference

It is an easy process.

Window glass makes for a great flat surface to work on.

The typical CPU IHS is slightly higher near the edges, but that is all it takes. Place the CPU in the black pin protector packaging shipped with the CPU. This will offer a little mechanical protection and will keep and dirt from being deposited in the pins/grid.

Placing the CPU IHS down onto the sandpaper/emery cloth, apply very little downward pressure and move the CPU in a circular motion. Add a few drops of water just to keep the working surface wet.

The first grit size should be about 400. This part of the process is continued until the silver coating is completely removed. After only 10 or so revolutions, the high points appear on the surface of the IHS as the silver coating is removed, thereby exposing the copper below the surface coating.

Typically the first step at 400 grit takes about 20 to 30 minutes.

Then change the paper to a finer grit and repeat, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000...

Subsequent stages of finer grit are completed by examining the IHS (you will know just by looking at the IHS). When done properly each stages takes about 30-40 minutes depending on the jump in grit size. If not done properly, the next grit size will take MUCH MUCH longer.

Even at 1000, the surface of the IHS will reflect an image by tilting the IHS. The finer the grit and better the polish will reduce the angle needed to view a reflection. At 2000 you can use the IHS as a mirror.

I have some glass based polish that is 20,000 but have yet to use it.

If you're worried about messing it up, go buy a cheap 775 and practice on it. Measure the temp under load with a good OC and voltage, lap, then test for the results.

In no time at all, we'll have you applying Vdroop eliminators to your mobo

Cheers

BTW, the Zalman CNPS9500 has a finish greater than 2000 grit. It is has a very nice finish, perhaps the best on the market...

ok off to get sand paper tomorrow. i have a e 2150 i think it is kicking around here somewhere maybe ill give it a shot on that. or maybe even try one of these old socket 7 chips i have here with the same kinda IHS. sort of.

thanks for the useful info.

lol practice on shit you find in the garbage, like dells or hp compaq etc